womantraveler

Tea Time, So Civilized in Paris

Paris, the "city of light" has many awakenings -- and taking time for tea is one of them.  Espresso is a slam-dunk (see next post) but tea is perhaps an acquired taste -- and an acquired pace. And Paris has a true tea culture. It can be lively as a cafe or a subtle reflective haven. I experienced both.

On a miserable spring morning, after standing in line fruitlessly for an art museum exhibit in the cold drizzle (the lines can be interminable whatever the weather), I gave up on Marie Antoinette at the Grand Palais for a Marie Antoinette restorative China tea at Laduree, the renowned tearoom at 16 rue Royale (8th), a merciful few blocks away in the Right Bank's Place Madeleine. Understandably, it was jammed, but accepting the first table in the less crowded upstairs was a smart move. I settled in to a banquette. Laduree, with several locations, is a mixture of a cafe (for tea) and a cake shop. During the emergence of cafes in Paris in the late 19th century, Laduree (founded in 1862) welcomed women, unlike the traditional cafes. Today it is also patissier, chocolatier, confiseur, restaurant and, iconically, salon de the.

Ironies of ironies, my eye lands on the Marie Antoinette -- a delicious China tea mixed with essential oils of subtle citrus fruit, flavors of rose and jasmine flowers, scattered with small pieces of dried fruits and honey. She -- and I -- at that moment in time never had it so good! Laduree is terrific people-watching. My banquette seat along the wall gave a view inside and out -- tourists and locals -- families and solos. Sitting in Second Empire decor, I experienced the modern world. And helped along by a raspberry macaroon.

The next day I was over on the Left Bank in the 6th and settled into one of the Mariage Freres tearooms, at 13 rue des Grands-Augustins. You have to know where you're going on the winding back streets of St. Germain des Pres to land here, nearby the famous restos of Jacques Cagna and Les Bouquinistes. I sat alone in the late afternoon with a myriad of choices, settling in simply with a full pot of "Afternoon Tea" for $12 (my own completely unhurried pot at a white-table clothed table where I could write and think for an hour). The shop downstairs has hundreds of teas from around the world.

"Un parfum d'aventure et de poesie s'evade a l'infini de chaque tasse de the," said founder Henri Mariage back in 1854. D'accord!

Paris: Best of Le Shopping 2008

This is a budget-challenging year in Paris, but, dears, there are lots of fashion bargains. Chic-chic Paris is much more affordable than its buzz. Everyone notices these distinctive finds, and it's always such fun to say, "Oh, I got this in Paris..." 

• Jackets: I'm hooked on Eva Tralala boiled wool jackets. The price point is amazing (several styles under $100). They're warm but not bulky, versatile and easy to pack. Each trip I make a beeline to Nina Jacob, 23 rue des Francs-Bourgeois in the 4th (Marais), to check out the latest collection.
• Pashminas: I am constantly complimented on the pashminas I have bought in or near a Metro station, in a stall along the street and, most recently, from a sidewalk vendor right outside Printemps, one of the city's signature department stores. I took advantage of a "three-for" special and paid about $10 each for three colorful patterned pashminas (in rayon and wool) that always draw attention. They're eye-catching and distinctive and dress up any outfit, especially the basic black that is my default travel wardrobe. Inside Printemps, I bought a new Longchamp bag, the folding pocketbook in multiple sizes and colors.
• Jewelry: Go for the strands. Long, short, multiple chains around the neck -- pearls, semi-precious stones and metallic loops are big. You'll find terrific deals all over town, you just have to get out and browse. My recent finds occurred in the Marais and along the Rue Saint Louis en l'ile on the exclusive Ile St-Louis, where you should pop into these three shops -- Natacha Bijoux (#54), Yamina Sarl (#52) and Sarl Thelma (#75). On a previous visit, I chronicled the jewelry and accessories shops on "Le Mouffe" (Rue Mouffetard) and nearby Left Bank environs. 
• Scarves: In Paris, you always need them -- for warmth at the neck or an extra layer over a coat in winter and as a casual or dressy accessory year-round. Parisians wear them with a je ne sais quoi effortless style, but they are always intentional -- wrapped around the neck a couple of times, knotted or with the ends quickly looped through one time to keep them from flying off. Back in the US, I unfold them for wraps on a summer night and neckwear to keep out the damp when it's cooler. Some also double as pashminas (see above). Here's a store with hundreds of options in various fabrics, colors and patterns -- Diwali at 52, rue Saint Louis en l'ile, with four other locations -- 47/49, rue Mouffetard; 7, rue de la Huchette (5th); 40, rue Saint Andre des Arts (6th), and 5, rue Norvins (18th).
• Village St. Paul: Several shops clustered in the Marais are also favorite destinations, starting with gifts and accessories at the very friendly Patch World, 7 rue Saint Paul, bordering the historic and artsy Village St. Paul. At Patch World I picked up a couple of high-tech acrylic necklaces and a low-tech tin vase cover. Across the street at Miravidi (16, rue St Paul) is a stunning jewelry selection in acrylic, plexiglas, mother-of-pearl and Swarovski crystal. The enclosed St. Paul "village" is also an eclectic destination for antiques and artisans.

  

Paris Bistros: The Real Thing

How does one choose where to eat in Paris anyway? Quick answer -- a combination of research and serendipity.  Here's a place to go -- Au Bon St-Pourcain. I myself, moi-meme, prefer simple home-style cooking without all the drama. That's harder and harder to find, not because it doesn't exist, but with all the ratings and rankings and (shooting myself in the foot here) self-defined experts that we've all become tend to overlook "le vrai gout."

Upon the recommendation of my driver, who was a budding filmmaker partly educated in LA), I had visited the stunning exhibition of the little-known French foundational Fauvist Maurice de Vlaminck at the Musee du Luxembourg. This exhibition, which closes mid-July is a must-see.

Afterwards, I was meandering toward the St-Sulpice church, of Da Vinci Code fame, when I crossed paths with Au Bon St-Pourcain on a narrow street.

This resto was on my list, and Paris insiders already know about this 26-seat corner bistro (10 bis, rue Servandondi). Imagine my surprise to be the only guest at 1:30 pm. (It's the euro-dollar imbalance, the owner told me with great chagrin. Such establishments are truly hurting this year, even after 20+ years in the business.) But also to my surprise today's "plat du jour" special at 20 euros is blanquette de veau (blanquette of veal), the type of meal that chefs don't throw together at the last minute. It is best stewed for several hours, in expectation of the guests who will arrive. That's the type of care that owner and former Deux Magots waiter Francois (and his daughter Fabienne, who was managing the cozy room) put into the cooking and reception.

This is an "old friends" place. I felt like an old friend -- and was treated that way.

A Dining Rhapsody in Chicago

After a busy client day in the Windy City, trusting my intuition for a light dinner at Rhapsody's bar in the Chicago Symphony Center was really smart. And the choice of a flight of three cheeses with a salad of fresh greens, a crab cake and white wine was brilliant. Going solo on business, I've learned to ask the bartender what's hot -- and usually that recommendation is a winner.

I'm savoring the reminiscence of Raschera (Italian Piedmont), Garrotxa (Spanish Pyrennes) and Tete de Moine (Switzerland), an assortment of both goat's and cow's milk with a variety from sharp to balanced and sweet, different textures, and so on. A glass of the sturdy Sanford Chadonnay just nailed it.

Here's my formula for a successful dinner alone in a big U.S. city as a Womantraveler. Do a little research. Read the brochures in your hotel room or ask your clients for some options. Typically the local office workers drift to the bars and early dinners straight from their jobs, so 5 to 7:30 is the worst. If you don't have a reservation, especially in a busy downtown scene like Chicago, you have to improvise. And I don't typically have huge expense budgets so I do like the bar or light meal options.

Rhapsody was smart because the early crowd is headed to the symphony and the rush begins to dissipate between 7 and 7:30. And, often bar and lounge seating (which I prefer because of the abbreviated menus and quicker service) is pretty jammed. So I got there as soon as I could, in this case about 6:30, and was willing to wait (with a smile). I make sure the staff knows I'm there and waiting patiently. It pays to be friendly -- there are lots of pushy people who aren't. When a seat opens, I take my place.

Another good choice in Chicago was 1492 Tapas Bar at 42 E. Superior Street off upper Michigan Avenue. In a rainstorm, it was a haven -- and my own bar table with an ample choice of appetizers felt novel, was definitely tasty and the budget was right, too. Candidly, I would put it in the "good but not great" category, but it certainly was far above an ordinary meal at a hotel or familiar chain. When I'm traveling for business, I seek dinners out of the ordinary. It makes the day feel not so routine -- and in my  life, every day counts.

The Longest Day of the Year: Live It!

It is important to take note of the mystical summer solstice -- the longest day of the year, this year on June 20. Since I was 16 and spent Midsummer's Night in Norway as an exchange student, I have never taken this day for granted. There is a feeling of extended infinity, accompanied by the realization that the days will begin to shorten (which we won't dwell on now). And this happens this one day, suddenly, often before we are struck by its presence.

So fair warning -- get into it! Every year at this time, almost surprisingly, I recall how in my 20s I ventured close to the top of the world at Kiruna, Sweden.  Unfortunately the US economic mess and the dollar's imbalance with the rest of the world will rob many explorers of today of that adventure. But if you are in the vicinity, catch the train or bus and arrive inside the Arctic Circle to stay up all night in the light.

And wherever you are, extend your imagination and your thinking this one special day of the year!

Bags Here Today, Gone Today

It only takes one lost luggage experience on the way to the first meeting with a new client to change the system for packing. Showing up in jeans and a day-old shirt clearly won't deliver impressions of professionalism and confidence to the president or CEO. So when my flight from California to Philadelphia got canceled in Chicago, and I quickly snagged the last seat on a flight to Newark, NJ, silly me...I had happily managed to actually get to the East Coast -- and to arrive within 90 minutes' drive from my final destination -- and I expected to rendezvous with my bags at Newark baggage claim.

Having to figure out an alternative at 11:30 pm on a Sunday night does not provide a lot of options for the 9 am meeting the next morning. The lessons:

• Always carry on a small bag with a change of clothing, or wear something that can be washed overnight. Business travelers customarily carry on a suitcase for this reason, but carrying on can be a real hassle -- when traveling for a week or in winter and needing multiple outfits, when flying on small commuter jets with little or no storage, when toting a roller bag computer case that is chock full of business papers and when trying not to injure neck, shoulders and back with lots of schlepping. The one solution -- my default travel outfit: Chico's "Travelers Series." I was an early-adopter of this professional-looking wash-and-go line that also has many dress-up options, and the articles can be rolled into tiny spaces relatively wrinkle free. This solution also jives with my "always wear skirts" philosophy for airplane travel.
• Wear comfortable but stylish shoes that can be transformed into business attire the next morning.
• Carry on all make up, a toothbrush, fresh change of underwear, jewelry and other accessories. This is a good idea for a day trip because travel delays can wreak all kinds of havoc on one's appearance -- let alone well-planned calendars. Hotels usually carry some cosmetic items -- and have irons -- but don't expect eyeliner or fresh nylons.
• Remember that hotel shampoos and hair dryers come in very handy if you have to wash out clothing in a rush. To speed up drying, first wrap the item in a towel, twist the towel to squeeze out excess (or stomp on it) and then apply the hair dryer action.
• Always pack a pashmina -- the rayon versions found at most airports for under $20 are indispensable. If nothing else, you can wrap up and hide under a colorful pashmina and look quite professional and stylish.
• Check out 24-hour emergency bag delivery services provided by some airlines at some airports. This isn't always a sure thing. While the helpful United Airlines baggage customer service telephone operators were on the job all night, the local company delivering the bags from the Philly airport had closed down before I got to Newark and did not open again until 6 am the next morning. But I was able to talk to a resourceful and sympathetic sympathetic baggage service operator who put a rush on delivery the next morning.
• Put a copy of your itinerary in your luggage -- in case someone in baggage service has to open it to locate you as the owner.

The gods sorted things out so I could be a little late to the first meeting, but that isn't always something you can count on. Oh, yes, and the carry-on options are only going to get worse with all the airline cutbacks. So, stay tuned...

San Rafael Street Festival Redux

Womantraveler was on an extended vacation when Typepad featured her blog this week. Stay tuned -- there are lots of stories ahead...Meanwhile, as it's a deadline, the Italian Street Painting Festival in San Rafael, CA returns this weekend -- and if you're in the San Francisco Bay Area, check it out. This is how close you can get to the artists!

April in Paris: Hooked on Fish

My friends got married 25 years ago and spent their honeymoon in Paris. I didn't know them then. So when the subject of the 25th anniversary came up  this year, la voila!...Let's celebrate in Paris! New friends from California, we were coincidentally going to be in Paris anyway. So knowing about "Fish" --  Fish la Boissonnerie on the Rue de Seine in the 6th -- made me very popular. Everyone wants to say we have a neighborhood favorite that we keep returning to in Paris. For me, Fish is the resto for all occasions.

No need to put on your fancy pants. Fish, though not created by locals, is the most local of Paris restos. The owners -- from the US and New Zealand -- lived out the dreams we all have to reinvent ourselves in Paris. The building on the stylishly bohemian Left Bank is old and quaint. Good solid antique stones and half-timbered construction. Sort of a "cave" look, but authentic. An intimate bar (and a no pressure environment place for solo women). A small and cozy dining area. Solid wood tables, benches and chairs, no white table cloths. Welcoming and friendly in a generously multilingual way. English, French, Spanish, locals, tourists, whoever -- we're all treated the same. No pretense, no drama. Upon choosing Fish, we all immediately belong.

I happened upon Fish three years ago, so upon returning twice this year, I tried Fish again each time. It's a Patricia Wells favorite, and as an respected expert on Parisian cuisine, she counts for a lot. And clearly I'm hooked. Why -- because of the thousands of blinding choices in Paris, I know what I'm getting. It's excellent, and it's easy. Delicious, careful preparation, inventive yet simple, affordable and comfortable. Carefully chosen and featured wines, with an extensive selection, from around the world. The Fish-related wine shop, La Derniere Gout, is five minutes away. We hung out for three-plus hours and had no clue of the time. Back home in California, 10 minutes apart, we keep wondering for our next get-together, when can we rendezvous at Fish?

Email for reservations at laboissonnerie@wandaoo.fr. You'll hear right back.

Small Plates, Large Pleasures in San Francisco

We girlfriends dining out opt for the "small plates" restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area. Not that we eat any less, we simply enjoy a greater sampling of dishes -- and tasting the menu's variety is great fun.

To celebrate Leap Year, our choice was Sabor of Spain in  downtown San Rafael. Where did the four hours go?? Assorted olives (aceitunas de la casa) and a bottle of red wine (Crianza) started us off and lingered with us for the entire meal. Next came a butter lettuce and Spanish blue cheese salad, mixed marinated mushrooms in white wine, grilled marinated calamari and tiger prawns -- four "small" plates that amounted to a huge amount of food for two! We could also have ordered regular main dishes as well. Sabor of Spain's vinoteca and food products, as well as occasional live music, make it an "uptown" destination.

The first trip to Pres a Vi in San Francisco's historic Presidio was such a major hit that I've taken other guests back since. Located in Lucasfilm's Digital Arts Center, Pres a Vi is an upscale and animated city restaurant offering inventive and artistically presented "global cuisine" of both small plates and main dishes. A recent visit left us remarking on the endive salad, miso-marinated Alaskan black cod and King Salmon selections. A wide assortment of wines, in flights or ordered individually, pair thoughtfully with the food. And there's live jazz music on Thursday nights. (One friend was less satisfied with the brunch menu due to what she thought was a fairly limited menu and the restaurant's "no substitutions" policy. But you can always check the menu before making your reservation.)

For the best sushi in Marin County and arguably in the Bay Area, Sushi Ran in Sausalito is the right answer. When Bay Area restaurants were ranked by France's Michelin critics for the first time in 2006, Sushi Ran was among those winning a coveted Michelin star. That's in part because the menu is a combination of traditional Japanese and Pacific Rim cuisine served with imagination and flair. There are two sections -- one for reservations and the other for walk-ins. The wondrous sushi bar is on the reservations-only side. And if you're walking in, get there by 5:30 when Sushi Ran opens, or the line will soon have formed. Also come with a clear head and a large appetite -- the menu is lengthy and the wine list has 300 offerings!

Two other local faves: Betlenut on Union Street in San Francisco (Pan Asian fusion) has fabulous food and sidewalk tables for the best of San Francisco people-watching, while E&O Trading Company, with three Bay Area locations, transforms the big flavors of Southeast Asian cooking into dishes beyond the predictable Thai and Vietnamese preparations.

The Most Annoying Airplane Moments

While I love my Mobal world phone ($49 to own it plus competitive call charges per country), I also get a hoot out of the Mobal world phone users blog. Here's an unforgettable series of reflections about the most annoying things people do on airplanes.